How It Works

Transport & Planting Guide

Everything you need to know — from how we load and deliver your trees to how to get them in the ground and thriving.

Large trees loaded on a flatbed truck for delivery

Delivery

How We Transport Your Trees

We specialize in delivering large balled-and-burlapped trees safely across the East Coast.

1

Trees Are Dug & Balled

Each tree is carefully dug with a wire basket and burlap ball to protect the root system. Ball sizes vary by species and caliper — we'll confirm specs with your order.

2

Loaded on Flatbed or Step-Deck Trailers

Trees are loaded horizontal at a slight angle and secured with straps. A  load carries between 8 and 150 trees depending on the rootball size. We maximize each load to keep freight costs down.

Our Long Island runs are optimized for full loads — the more trees per trip, the lower your delivered price per tree.

3

Delivered to Your Site

We deliver directly to your job site or yard. You'll need a forklift, skid steer, or excavator on-site to unload. Trees should be unloaded promptly and heeled-in or planted within 24–48 hours of delivery.

4

Freight to Long Island

Our delivered pricing includes freight to Long Island. Deliveries to other East Coast locations are quoted separately — contact us with your zip code for a freight estimate.

Have equipment ready. Trees cannot sit on the truck. Have a forklift, skid steer, or excavator on-site before delivery arrives. Customer is responsible for unloading within 2 hours of delivery. If you are using equipment from a rental company, have them deliver the evening BEFORE the trees arrive.
Delivery windows: We'll coordinate a delivery window with you in advance. Most Long Island runs are scheduled 1–2 weeks out depending on season and load availability.

Quick Reference

Transport Specs

DetailInfo
Root Ball TypeBalled & Burlapped (B&B) with wire basket
Typical Load Size10–30 trees per load
Trailer TypeFlatbed or step-deck
Unloading EquipmentForklift, skid steer, or excavator required
Plant After DeliveryWithin 24–48 hours recommended
Primary Service AreaLong Island, NY (freight included)
Other East CoastAvailable — freight quoted separately
Minimum OrderContact us — typically 1 full load

Weight Per Tree

Ball weights vary significantly by species and size. A 6' Arborvitae may weigh 150–250 lbs, while a large specimen oak can exceed 2,000 lbs. Check the tree catalog for per-species weight estimates.

View tree weights in catalog

Planting

How to Plant Your Trees

Proper planting is the single biggest factor in long-term tree health. Follow these steps for the best results.

1

Dig the Right Hole

Dig the hole 2–3× wider than the root ball but no deeper than the ball height. The top of the root ball should sit 1–2" above the surrounding grade to allow for settling.

Never plant too deep — this is the #1 cause of tree failure. The root flare (where trunk meets roots) must remain above soil level.

2

Preparing the Rootball for Planting

Once the tree is in the hole, cut and remove the cords connecting the "ears" of the wire basket around the trunk of the tree. sometimes there are nails or staples keeping the burlap wrapped together on top of the rootball. Remove those so the burlap can be folded back to the outer perimeter of the wire basket.. Fold the "ears" of the wire basket back to the ourside. Do not remove the wire basket. Before you lower the tree into the hole, measure the depth of that rootball. Now jump down in the hole, pack the bottom with your boots, then measure the depth of the hole. Add a few shovels or take away a few until the height rootball top will be about 2" higher than the ground around it.

Natural burlap on the bottom can remain — it will decompose.

3

Backfill & Settle

Backfill with the native soil you removed. Avoid amendments in the backfill — they can create a "container effect" that discourages roots from spreading.

Tamp lightly in layers to eliminate air pockets. Do not compact heavily around the root ball.

4

Water Thoroughly

Water deeply immediately after planting — soak the entire root ball and surrounding soil. For the first growing season, water 2–3× per week unless there is significant rainfall.

A slow trickle for 30–60 minutes is more effective than a quick heavy soak.

5

Mulch the Root Zone

Apply 3–4" of wood chip mulch in a 3–4 ft ring around the tree. Keep mulch 3–4" away from the trunk to prevent rot and rodent damage.

Mulch retains moisture, moderates soil temperature, and suppresses competing weeds.

Care Tips by Factor

Watering

Newly planted trees need consistent moisture for the first 1–2 years. Deep, infrequent watering encourages deep root growth. Avoid shallow daily watering.

Signs of underwatering: wilting, browning needles/leaves. Signs of overwatering: yellowing, soft mushy soil around base.

Sun & Exposure

Most of our species (Arborvitae, Leyland Cypress, Green Giant) prefer full sun to partial shade. Avoid planting in areas with standing water or heavy shade.

Wind Protection

Newly planted trees may need staking in exposed or windy sites. Use two stakes and a flexible tie — allow slight movement to encourage trunk strength. Remove stakes after 1 year.

Spacing for Privacy Screens

HEIGTH determines spacing.The first question is how tall do you need them to grow? If a 14’ row of Thuja Green Giant will provide the privacy screen you need, you should be sure and “TOP” them at that height. To do that, you must let them grow a foot or so taller than the desired height, then just clip off the central leader, or main trunk. More height above what you need is a disadvantage for several reasons. The first is that during stress times, like a drought summer, or winter, the tree has to “decide” whether to send the moisture it does have to the upper limbs and truck or the lower limbs, it will always send the moisture to the top growth areas and starve out the lower limbs. Many people say their row of Thuja Green Giant was doing fine, then “all of a sudden” this year they started showing brown on the lower needles. This is because the height reached the point relative to spacing that results in stress.RULE of fours.You should space the trees so the target height needed is no more than 4 times the distance between the trunks. If you need a 20’ tall row to block your neighbor’s house or windows, you could space as close as 5’ on center. That is provided you will follow through, and when they reach 21 or 22’ tall, top them back to 20’ height. That means each tree will get the moisture from a 5’ diameter ground area without competition from the tree beside it. It also means there will be enough room for a strong 5’ diameter root system to secure a 20’ tall tree against the wind.ZIG ZAG pattern.This is a super solution if you can surrender some “width” of your property for the privacy screen. Let’s take an example; someone needs a 30’ tall privacy screen. If they use the rule of 4’s, and plant a single file row, they should space at 8’ on center, 4 times 8’ spacing  = 32’ max target heigth. If they are choosing to start with ten’ Thuja Green Giant or Leyland Cypress, they will be 4’ wide at planting time. That will leave them with 4’ of air in between each tree and waiting a long time to close together. If you plant two parallel rows, with each at 8’ on center, but staggered there will APPEAR to be a tree every 4’ you will have closure much quicker, yet still have the trees spaced for strength and low stress. In this case the first row should be 4’ from the property line, and the second row should be 8’ from the first. If tight on space, you could make the second row 6’ back from the first row. One note is that the appearance of a tree every 4’ is only when you are exactly perpendicular to the row. Also remember a ten foot Thuja Green Giant or Leyland Cypress may be 4 foot wide at it’s widest point, but also they get skinnier as they get tall.  In this situation, you still need the 8’ spacing based on the rule of fours, and the zig zag pattern will get you closure much sooner than a straight line row. If they decided on 12 foot trees, they would be 5’ wide at the widest point closure would come much quicker.Use and distribution of this article is subject to our Publisher Guidelines whereby the original author's information and copyright must be included.

Establishment Period

Expect 1–2 full growing seasons for trees to fully establish. Growth may be slow the first year as the root system develops. By year 2–3, expect vigorous growth.

Soil Preparation

If your soil is heavy clay, consider breaking up the surrounding area (not the backfill) to improve drainage. Sandy soils benefit from organic matter mixed into the surrounding area to retain moisture.

Species-Specific Notes

Arborvitae (Thuja)

Tolerates wet soils better than most conifers. Avoid heavy shade. Space 4–5 ft for privacy hedge. Deer pressure can be significant — consider repellent in suburban areas.

Leyland Cypress

Fast-growing but shallow-rooted. Stake in windy sites. Avoid overwatering once established. Susceptible to Seiridium canker in stressed conditions — maintain good drainage.

Green Giant Arborvitae

One of the most adaptable privacy trees. Tolerates a range of soils. Space 5–6 ft for hedge. Deer resistant. Minimal maintenance once established.

Norway Spruce

Prefers well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Full sun. Excellent windbreak tree. Allow 10–15 ft spacing for windbreaks. Drooping branches are normal as the tree matures.

Cryptomeria (Yoshino)

Prefers moist, well-drained soil. Protect from harsh winter winds the first year. Excellent specimen or screen tree. Bronze winter color is normal — greens up in spring.

Nelly Stevens Holly

Extremely adaptable. Tolerates clay, drought, and partial shade. Plant a male pollinator nearby for berry production. Excellent year-round screen with attractive red berries.

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Have Questions About Your Site?

We're happy to talk through your project — soil conditions, spacing, species selection, or delivery logistics. Call or email us anytime.